South Africa

A travel journal

Painted Dog by Ann Gadd

02/16

Arrival.

Cape Town is incredible. Never seen anything like it. Mediterranean climate and coastal architecture meets colorful Africana.

And the people; everyone is so kind. Welcoming and open with tourists alike. Our trip manager mentioned that South Africans are like this by nature. Apartheid and Nelson Mandela bespoke a new wave of emotional capacity for others.

I’m excited.

02/17

Day two. Still recovering from jet lag. Already several friends in the group. Settling in and staying present.

We take a masterclass in cooking. Everyone tasked with making a typical South African dish. I make a gumbo of sorts. Mince the onion and clove the garlic. Angela gives me shit for not dicing the tomatoes before putting them in the pot. I was just following the recipe bruh.

02/18

From Cape of Good Hope to the coast. Seafood and sparkling water overlooking the ocean.

Spent an hour chest deep in the Atlantic. Eventually had to get out, towel off and wring-free the sand. Feeling refreshed and standing on the beach. The water washed me free.

We drive down the coast to a vineyard. Sampled sauvignon blanc and stood beneath the alms of an ancient savannah tree. Watched the afternoon sun alight the ocean. The horizon a white gleam.

Take the coach home, Jason and Jordan left a 24-rack of Corona beer in the fridge. Four glasses of wine and two beers deep, we roll back into Cape Town. Even making a stop for more liquor. Hannah buys shots.

The group is feeling it, dancing and egging each other on. And I couldn’t help but try not to laugh. Hoping they wouldn’t call me out. I just want to sit and watch. Seeing everyone else happy makes me happy.

Later, at the bar, I sit with Valerie and Nicole. We explore Val’s love life and I do my best to talk her out of some guy back home who’s clearly not giving her the time. You make time for the people you care about.

Early night. 4am flight to Johannesburg tomorrow morning. I’m here for it.

02/19

Kruger National Park. Game drive across the savannah. Never seen such fauna. Elephants and giraffes and impala everywhere. Jackals and hyenas lurking behind corners. Lions in coordinated prides. Social and dominance hierarchies on full display.

Saw a cheetah at 50ft. Lone female tracking upwind. Lithe and regal frame. Like a woman with legs (and she knows it) — showing them off in high heels.

02/20

Slept in this morning. Took a hot shower in the communal camp bathrooms. Didn’t realize how much I needed it.

Driving out past Kruger, massive cold front pushing up the clouds. A lone bird of prey cascading, riding the plumes.

There’s a certain type of person who arises from abject poverty. An understanding of the people in power. Living in a state of constant oppression. Sheer corruption by those at the top.

After an afternoon nap we take a sunset game drive back through Kruger. Followed the river — looking for a leopard. Made it halfway out before the sky opened up, a squall cutting across the savannah. Pushing the cats into the trees.

02/21

So much poverty, but in a different way. In America, those in poverty live in desperation because they can see how the upper classes live. Sense of hopelessness and/or class struggle.

Whereas in Africa, initially felt sad observing such poverty. But seems different. Everyone here is filled with hope. And it’s not simply that they don’t know any better — because they have access to the internet and seem very cognizant of western culture. Almost as if they understand how the wider world works, but choose to retain their heritage. Their community.

There’s something I envy about that.

02/22

Currently drinking a beer, waiting to jump off a bridge.

Update. Jumped off of said bridge. Never felt fear like that in my life.

02/23

Went river rafting in the Zambezi river downstream from Victoria Falls. Got thrown from the boat and washed through the rapids. Almost drowned. Got pulled aboard by Jesse and one of the raft hands. Spent the next minute coughing up water. Felt like my body was in panic mode in the hours following.

Jumping off of bridges. Being sucked down by whirlpools. That’s enough adrenaline for one trip.

Got back to the lodge and took a cold shower. Washed the sweat and fear away. Made some hot tea. Self care in full effect.

Met the group for a sunrise riverboat cruise. Bartender dishing triple brandy cokes. Drinking games and tomfoolery. Suddenly drunk.

Feels like the group finally came together. Acquaintances unto friends. Family.

02/24

Crossed the border from Zambia into Botswana and made our way to Chobe National Park. Afternoon game drive rained out.

Saw a lightening bolt demolish a tree. Three seconds for the thunder to clap.

Came back soaked and played poker at the hotel. Used loose change and leaves (yes, leaves of grass) to quantify our bets.

Early night, sleep needed.

02/25

Started the day with an early morning game drive across Chobe. Saw damn near nothing for almost 3 hours. Then our guide got word of a dead elephant on the radio.

Vultures circling for miles. Baboons screaming from the trees.

When we get there, a dead young elephant lain upon the savannah-grass. A pride of lions feeding upon the carcass. Guide says it likely died from stress. Lions simply found the corpse.

Watched a young cub drag away some intestines. Literally 15 feet away. The circle of life.

Guide persists, taking us deeper into the bush. Come upon several males and females protecting a group of newborn cubs. Pride gets defensive, false charging our safari vehicle. Driver is unfazed. “Take lots of pictures” he says.

Make our way back to the camp. Everyone reeling with excitement from the experience. Checked boxes on this trip that I didn’t even know existed.

02/26

Departure. Flight from Kasane to Johannesburg. Laid over with Karen, Miguel, Alex, Franklin, Jordan, Jason, and Hannah for several hours. We find a diner and order pizza. Have a couple beers and retell war stories. Wonder how its already over.

Saying goodbye. Trying to find the words.

Sitting at my gate and waiting for the plane home.

Happy.

“In the spring of the year birds began to arrive on the beach from across the gulf. Weary passerines. Vireos. Kingbirds and grosbeaks. Too exhausted to move. You could pick them up out of the sand and hold them trembling in your palm. Their small hearts beating and their eyes shuttering. He walked the beach with his flashlight the whole of the night to fend away predators and toward the dawn he slept with them in the sand. That none disturb these passengers.”

- Cormac McCarthy